A new type of Fluffy! Or at least my take. The Fluffy Cow, or how I will call it, the Coluffy! (Ver.1) (Forixiom)

After looking at some posts of fluffy cows, I had an interesting idea. I decided to give an origin story (different to those old ones) and traits to fluffy cows. They are different to Fluffalos and they aren’t meant to replace Fluffies either, but they could instead be the abusers thanks to their upgrades, or simply could be abused in very particular ways normal Fluffies couldn’t. It could also be fun to put them in previous abuse stories and see how they in particular would react.

History

Cow Fluffies, also known as Coluffies, were created after Hasbio renounced their patent of Fluffies. Unlike other companies that also invested into the market of Fluffies to make other species with obvious biological changes; like Micro-Fluffies; the genetic engineering department of the company Towami decided to upgrade Fluffies.

To avoid bad press for the main company they claimed they were going to fix Fluffies, so they wouldn’t suffer incessantly and be destructive to the environment. This worked quite effectively, making PETA look the other way and obtaining a small fanbase of Hugboxers who waited excitedly for this new breed, and a very small group of abusers who were interested in the ways they could particularly abuse Coluffies.

Even though they were not given information by Hasbio to better understand the genetics of Fluffies, they had bigger experts on the subject compared to other companies, so they were able to understand more about the fluffy genetic code and modify it to a larger extent, even being able to change the programmed language and vocabulary in their DNA. Since they were not completely dedicated to the creation of Coluffies they took longer to create them compared to other companies, meaning that they are a fairly new species.

After a bunch of years, they were released to the public in limited quantities; still being classified as biotoys; being quite expensive compared to even alicorn Fluffies. Of course, the Hugboxers bought most of them, as well as some rich people. Only a few Coluffies were released into the wild by irresponsible owners and managed to reproduce, but thanks to them being more similar to cows they didn’t impact the environment more than cows could. They were also way less abused thanks to their more redeeming qualities.

Appearance

Coluffies are generally barely taller than Fluffies by around half a head thanks to their somewhat longer legs, also letting them walk and run faster. They generally have shorter fur on their legs. The most notable differences between them is that all Coluffies have tiny cow horns and a cow tail with a fluffy end. They also have ears that come from the sides and arch up that vary in size. They still possess the mane on their heads that has a different color along with the end of their tails. They also can get blotches like cows on their fur, being the same color as their mane. The mares also have udders close to their hind legs, but they are fairly short and are a little bit farther to the middle than Fluffies.

There are two main variants of Coluffies: The Earthen ones which have only their horns, and the Pegasus, which have wings as long as half of their body but will not believe themselves able to fly after at least trying once and seeing they can’t even lift up a little.

There is a rare mutation of Coluffies, in which they lose their horns. These are often runts like others that are deformed, but unlike truly deformed Coluffies a third of the time they are born healthy enough to not be considered as such by their parents.

In an even rarer mutation, they will be able to grow to the size of a medium dog, but because of it they will have cardiovascular problems as their hearts are not made to pump so much blood, getting easily tired and their joints will start to hurt much quicker.

Because of the implementation of more bovine DNA, the amount of colors that Coluffies could be was reduced but added a larger amount of different shades of the same color. The colors most notably absent were green and peach. They still had their two-color scheme, but these were actually passed down by genetics. The most common colors were white, reddish brown, brown, and gold.

Physical Changes

Coluffies were given more bovine DNA, and as such their digestive track is more similar to a cow’s, making them more herbivore-like. They will mostly eat any kind of plant-based food, including fruit and vegetables. Cocoa makes them very sick except for extremely rare cases and they don’t like spicy food (though they can be conditioned to like it). They can still eat meat, but only from time to time or else they will become ill, meaning that cannibalistic Coluffies will quickly die if they don’t also feed on plants. If fed nutritious food they won´t need to feed often but if they feed on grass or flowers they will need to eat like a cow double their size. They also have better bowel control, being able to hold it in for extended periods of time, though when damage starts to occur they will no longer hold it. The only fault in this category is that they will still piss themselves when under a lot of stress, though they are still more tolerant than regular Fluffies.

Their hooves are divided in two and more cow like. They can move them independently of each other, but their range is limited, giving them the ability to hold small and light things between their hooves, like a foal’s scruff. These are made of actual keratin instead of cartilage but are still soft compared to horse hooves, meaning they can at least dig through moist dirt and can resist blunt trauma more, but they are still easily harmed by sharp objects.

They are still very fluffy, but unlike normal Fluffies their fur does work to protect them from the cold, so they are better suited for cold weather. In hot places you run the risk of having your Coluffy die of heatstroke if they don’t have their fur cut short, as they can still sweat but with large amounts of fur it won’t be able to cool them fast enough.

They will live up to 16 years thanks in part to the human DNA but will usually develop a sort of quickly progressing Alzheimer’s disease when around 12-14 years old, in some rare cases developing it when they are around 6 years old, in that case it being slow.

Their hearts are also better, pumping blood efficiently, though because of that they can bleed out much faster than a Fluffy. The rest of their organs are more efficient as well and are also stronger, meaning it takes more to kill a Coluffy if there is no profuse bleeding. Their immune system is also better (because in my headcannon Fluffies get sick quite easily if dirty, especially since they can contract a bigger variety of illnesses), the thing they are the weakest being digestive diseases and parasites. They still heal as fast as Fluffies. Towami forgot to modify the pain threshold at which they will faint, so it is as high as a Fluffy.

The most impressive physical changes they have is that they no longer have extremely brittle bones; though they are still weaker compared to an animal of its size; meaning they can eat harder foods than Fluffies and are fairly close to being strong enough to actually hurt a small kid, also meaning that they can carry another Coluffy of their same size if needed. They can also move more agilely thanks to their cat DNA; being able to dodge certain dangers; but not by an incredible amount. These changes make them resilient enough to have no need to live in a very safe environment when they become adults.

Behavioral Changes

Coluffies and Fluffies have a lot of similarities and differences in this regard. One of the most clear examples is that their preferred food is candy instead of spaghetti since they can’t digest it better than fruit or plants, but they can sugar. The instant they first taste candy they will want more sweet things like it. Owners can teach them that candy is bad for them if they eat too much and they will believe it but will still want candy from time to time. Owners should also tell them to not eat chocolate as they will most likely get sick.

Thanks to the corrected genes, Coluffies now have the actual intelligence of a human, ranging from 5 to 7 years old, with some rare cases of Coluffies having the intelligence of up to a 10-year-old and in extremely rare cases, being able to be as intelligent as an adult. The only defects they have in this category is that they are as stupid as a normal Fluffy until they reach adolescence; gradually becoming smarter and gaining more instincts; and that they have bad memory. They also get different mental alterations than Fluffies, being more similar to humans. Coluffies will forget stuff they haven’t constantly seen for more than 2 months, after which, they will be able to remember like a human would; even if they don’t see it again; though with a slow deterioration of the memory. Anything else will be forgotten after a maximum of 27 days depending on how much it grabbed their attention and the time they spent with it, repeated exposure resetting the timer and subtracting more time for the 2-month mark. This means you can separate foals from their parents before they have spent 2 months together and they will eventually forget their offspring. Memories that are very impactful though, will either be remembered like if they had seen it for 2 months, or will at least subconsciously affect the Coluffy.

A way to help a Coluffy remember something its owner wants is to ask it to keep reminding itself of the thing. A loyal enough Coluffy will try its hardest to remind itself of the thing its owner wants and will usually succeed in remembering the thing permanently.

They have certain common traits like Fluffies, but they aren’t as hardwired or strong. They will easily love any humans that take care of them and will want to have an owner if they don’t, only abuse above what they can take being able to change that. Instead of “Daddeh” or “Mummah” they call their owners “Mastew”. They will quickly learn that adult humans are smarter than them and will trust them on things they don’t know about. A desire to give and receive hugs is still very present in Coluffies but will not believe them to be a cure all after they become intelligent enough and will mostly use it as a sign of love or to comfort someone. They like to play a lot and since they can move faster and have more energy, Coluffies can be played with like if they were young kids or small dogs. Toys like balls or big hamster wheels are perfect for them as they like to move much more than Fluffies. Most particularly like to play catch. They also wag their tails when happy and might move around in circles if particularly excited, pegasus Coluffies flapping their wings as well.

Their personalities are varied like humans, but generally they have two personality traits, being curious and also cautious, meaning they are slightly afraid of things they don’t know, so Coluffies are less prone to accidents. For this reason anyone wanting to be an owner should search for a Coluffy with a similar personality to them. Coluffies can also have smarty syndrome, though they stop being suicidally overconfident after they reach adolescence. Instead they are left to be incredibly selfish, to the point of being able to make everyone either abandon it and eventually make the Coluffy depressed or kill it. They will also scheme to obtain what they want thanks to their higher intelligence, faking remorse unless the punishment is harsh enough and being aggressive to those it perceives as weaker than him. They are also actually smarter than they would be if they were a regular Coluffy, being in average mentally one year older. They will also keep grudges and are the only Coluffies who knowingly will rape foals, either Coluffy or Fluffy, simply to relieve themselves. The best way to prevent them from becoming full smarty is by harshly disciplining it while it is still young but without physically hurting it.

Coluffies get very attached to their owners after they can permanently remember them and will usually be very loyal to them. They can easily be lied to when trusting, even after discovering some of the lies, but after too many they won’t trust their owner much anymore (called “Wying Mastew” by Coluffies), though they won’t try to leave yet. More lying and mostly excuses will prevent them from calling their owner Lying Master. They will be sad for a while if they are separated from what they see as a good owner but can still get attached again to their new owner. Attached Coluffies that know their owner died will become depressed, but it is not permanent and won’t need therapy as long as new care is given. Coluffies that are told they are up for adoption will not consider their caretakers as their owners.

Coluffies are less needy than normal Fluffies when they reach the weanling stage. When only a single Coluffy is present, adults will only need attention from their owner for around two hours a day as long as they have toys or something to do, though this value can change depending on personality and how it was raised. If they are kept with another Coluffy their age; two if they are still not adolescent; they can be interacted almost no time at all as they get all the interaction from each other, but they will regard their owner as basically their food giver and cleaner, and possibly even constantly forget that a human owns them if they are still not past the 2-month mark. Because of this it is recommended for owners to interact with their Coluffies at least an hour a day.

Coluffies still want to play and become friends with other Coluffies, the interactions between them usually friendly as they are fairly empathetic, but they won’t get too attached until they can remember them. After they permanently remember each other they become “Fowevew Fwiends” if they like each other, a bond that is only broken by serious conflict between the two. Forever Friends then can become “Best Fwiends”, which is how they call each other when they want to reproduce and become parents. After mating and seeing that the mare is indeed pregnant, most Coluffies will definitely consider that Coluffie their Best Friend and won’t have another one until one of them dies, and if they were really close they might not want to have a new Best Friend again. Stallions will love and value their partner more than their offspring, though not by much, being able to sacrifice their foals to protect their Best Friend though they will usually sacrifice themselves. If they notice the mare being a bad parent though, they might take care of the foals themselves; abandoning the mare; depending on their personality. Only in extremely rare occasions will stallions love their foals more that their partner, and by a lot, being able to keep the foals to themselves if they think their partner is a bad parent, even if it isn’t, only using her to feed them. Mares are more divided on this. Half will love their Best Friend over their offspring and the other half vice versa. In rare cases a mare will obsess over her foals so much that she won’t let them interact with someone else other than her and their siblings, shooing away their Best Friend and possibly running away if they have an owner. If an owner notices this behavior they should separate her from the foals before she forms the permanent memory and reintroduce them to her after she forgets them as orphaned foals. If this doesn’t stop her from obsessing an owner should keep them in a place they cannot escape from and punish the mother every time she acts obsessive or give the foals to other adult Coluffies altogether.

Coluffies rarely treat each other badly based on appearance, even if they are deformed in some way, with discrimination usually caused by constant observation of humans discriminating by appearance. Unlike Fluffies, they are not prone to look down on bad looking Coluffies but instead will look up on what they learn are beautiful Coluffies. Also, because they are more empathetic and less sexually driven, rape and especially foal rape is very rare with Coluffies.

Small groups of owned Coluffies will usually be friendly to each other, even if there is some preference over one of them. They can still become selfish if they are spoiled too much, though it is harder for them to become like that relative to Fluffies. The bigger the group taken care by humans, the more probable that when one gets spoiled it will become selfish, as it will feel special.

Another upgrade from normal Fluffies is that Coluffies have a better vocabulary programmed into them, only saying words with their classic lisp (r and l pronounced like w, and won’t pronounce it if it’s at the end of a word) but without incorrect orthography, though they still don’t know how to use correct grammar, still speaking like Fluffies in that regard except for the fact that they will refer to themselves in the first person. They will use the same but orthographically correct words that would be inappropriate for children like Fluffies do, but unlike Fluffies, can be taught more easily to say other words. Only some particularly hard words are said like Fluffies do, an example being love (Wub instead of Wove). They will try singing sometimes if they are happy and to entertain their offspring and are actually able to have rhythm even if it doesn’t rhyme, but they can learn. They also make some different noises than Fluffies. When in pain they will whimper like dogs instead of crying, this also helps to distinguish if a Coluffy is sad or hurt. They may make a happy whimper if they feel happy instead of cooing. They will still coo when they are giving love to their offspring. Unlike Fluffies, adult Coluffies will never revert back to chirping if under a lot of stress.

Coluffies instead of defecating or urinating as a form of punishment, humiliation, and intimidation will instead insult someone to the best of their ability; usually by saying they are dumb or gross; using swear words if they have heard them. Coluffies will dance a lot, foals being more prone to do it to show they are happy with their lives to their caretakers. They might not dance very well but they can become better by observing others. They will do it to get the attention of their owners when neglected, to show they are happy with their lives or when they beg for something.

Unlike normal Fluffies, Coluffies have a wider spectrum of abuse tolerance around the same size as humans. Some Coluffies will easily give up and become depressed when confronted with hardship or abuse, while others will get over pretty rough circumstances and will either become wiser or desensitized. Neglected single Coluffies will either forget their owner and believe themselves to be alone in the world or if they permanently remember them they will think they no longer love them, in both cases they eventually become suicidally depressed. Neglected multiple Coluffies on the other hand will instead take care of each other, though they will still become sad. Abused Coluffies will never trust their abusers (called “Monstew Humans”, “Monstew Cowuffies”, or simply “Monstew” by Coluffies) again after a certain threshold dependent on their personality, possibly never trusting another human or Coluffy of the same age and gender as their abuser easily again. In some rare cases, abused Coluffies will basically develop Stockholm Syndrome and will want to be with their abusers even if they are constantly getting hurt, possibly becoming masochistic. If a Coluffy sees another one be terribly abused, they will also become scared and won’t trust the abuser again. A way to circumvent this is by saying it’s just punishment, but even then, since Coluffies are smarter and if the thing they are being punished for and the punishment are disproportionate enough they will also not believe the lie. When a Coluffie becomes suicidal, it will need actual therapy to be able to fix it, not just kind words, and love, though it helps.

When Coluffies lose at least half of their legs or become “pillowed”, either because someone thinks it’s better for them or because whatever accident, they will most likely become depressed, even more so than Fluffies, except for the most mentally resistant and adaptable Coluffies or ones that can still be given wheels. All of them will need constant attention from their owners or other Coluffies, or else they will eventually become suicidal and kill themselves any way they can or become indifferent to everything, being no better than a plushy that drinks, eats and defecates. They will even be sad constantly even if the owner is with them unless comfort is given if they are particularly emotional. Unlike Fluffies, Coluffies cannot be entertained with television, as they prefer to play first and only watch TV when tired or bored. Because of these facts an owner will basically always need to buy either an at least weanling Coluffy; because if they are any younger they won’t have enough empathy and might hurt its feelings like a Fluffy would; or two other pillowed Coluffies, as they will at least be able to chat. Any Coluffy with legs should be taught to play with the pillowed Coluffy any way it can imagine. They are safer than pillowed Fluffies since they aren’t prone to attacking other Coluffies out of frustration except for already prone to frustration Coluffies. Since they are smarter than Fluffies, they will almost always find how to move again by rolling and crawling like a caterpillar. When they do their mood will significantly improve and they will only have periodical bursts of sadness when alone. Because of the difficulty to take care of them at the start, especially if it was an emotional Coluffy beforehand, any pillowed Coluffies are better off euthanized.

Coluffies are still afraid of the dark but less than Fluffies, being able to sleep in darkness as long they are with someone, have something to hug or if there is a night light close. Young Coluffies need more attention and will only sleep alone if there is a night light and something to hug or they will be too stressed to sleep. A good way to punish Coluffies without hurting them is by putting them in a dark, empty but cramped space, like a closet. Since they like to move a lot they will quickly get bored and time will seem to pass slower. The darkness and isolation will make the Coluffy see and hear things, making it panic, feel fear, and also sadness since it’s alone. This makes a “Punishment Room” very effective. It is not recommended to do it before they permanently remember their owner though; as they will more quickly forget things inside; nor leave them there for too long because some will become traumatized and get claustrophobia. They don’t have an instinctive fear of a “Sowwy Stick” because it was accidentally deleted, so owners can teach a Coluffy to fear a very specific weapon, especially when they are young and impressionable.

The best way to train a Coluffy is first with rewards and words of encouragement. The different levels of escalation to train a Coluffy should be as follows: First, explain to the Coluffy why it needs to do or should not do something, simplifying it a lot or telling it that it is very complicated and that it should trust you and also using guilt tripping if he is reluctant. This will most likely stop it from doing dangerous things but isn’t very effective for things it has done before and sees as good. Second, reward it with things it likes for behaviors you want to encourage, though sometimes rewards should not be given, with an appropriate excuse being made. After the 2-month mark no more physical rewards should be given, ignoring its questions about it, and emotional rewards like hugging and words of encouragement should be given sparely, the remaining times it asks for a reward being ignored. Depending on its personality it will eventually give up asking for a reward for the behavior you want but keep doing it out of habit. At that point there’s no need to reward it more but can still be done from time to time to keep it happy. Third, if it still asks for a reward and possibly stops doing the behavior you want, you should punish it by taking away its toys for a few hours and locking it in a normal room, explaining to it why you punished it. Fourth, if it still asks for a reward or still doesn’t do the behavior you want, or even does something bad out of spite, then should you put it in a Punishment Room. You should of course explain why its there, so it understands what it shouldn’t do anymore. It should be kept there for a minimum of 4 hours, and after that you should wait until it starts complaining about hunger or thirst, but not begging. It shouldn’t be kept for longer than 8 hours, as it might become traumatized and get claustrophobia. Fifth, for repeat offenders a Punishment Box should be used, in which the Coluffy is so cramped it can’t move in any direction. It also should be as dark as you can make it. The previous times for punishment should be used. This punishment should particularly be used on Smarties; especially if young; for any smarty behavior until they behave. Sixth, hurting or killing a Fluffy or other Coluffy in front of the punished Coluffy should only be used for horrible behaviors, as anything less and the Coluffy will believe you to be a Scary Human. The pain inflicted on the Fluffy or Coluffy should not be too exaggerated, as the Coluffy can see it as disproportionate and believe you to be a Scary Human. You should also not show any joy doing it. Seventh, violence on the Coluffy should only be used as a last resort for horrible behaviors. A particular object should always be used to dish out the punishment and like before you should explain what they did wrong. Damage should not exceed any that can be healed, like breaking eyes or slicing off parts of the Coluffy, as they will start to fear you instead of the weapon. If this does not work, that means the Coluffy is too stubborn and should be put down or the punishments were not done correctly.

Coluffies were given more survival instincts, akin to those of a cow, except for aggressive defensive behavior, the only aggressive instinct being the one of stomping on their attacker, though on humans it won’t hurt more than accidentally colliding a toe on something, at most leaving a bruise. They will usually use it as a last resort against something at least the same size as them, mostly choosing to flee at a fair speed if they sense danger, though big groups of Coluffies will be more confident about defending themselves from stronger attackers until proven too overpowering, but will still flee if their enemy is significantly bigger than any of them. They can learn other ways to attack if they need them to survive as well. If their attacker can speak they will first try to tell them to stop before resorting to fleeing. They might be afraid of Fluffy smarties at first and flee, but after learning that Fluffies are very weak they will instead not give in and will defend themselves if they are attacked, learning that hurting a Fluffy smarty somewhat is enough for them to flee.

Because of the cat DNA they have, Coluffies are still afraid of water. They will drown in deep water though thanks to their improved instincts they can kind of swim, being able to survive if they are close enough to shallower water or something to grab on, and also being able to overcome certain current speeds. You can teach a Coluffy that bath time is not scary, but the time it takes depends on the Coluffy. It will still be faster than with a Fluffy. You could also teach it to swim, even if only doggy style.

Thanks to their increased intelligence, Coluffies will usually be friendly towards other animals but also cautious to not anger them, especially if they seem dangerous. They can particularly get along well with domesticated animals their size if taught how to interact with them. It won’t replace the interactions with humans or other Coluffies though.

Life Cycle

  1. Pregnancy and Birth

First of all. Coluffies are less eager to reproduce, unlike Fluffies. They usually will only mate after they have made a Forever Friend of the opposite sex and become close enough to become Best Friends. They are still fairly fertile and will easily become pregnant, though with a smaller success rate than Fluffies. They will still reproduce even if they don’t have a Forever Friend if insisted by an owner, by necessity, or if they are incredibly aroused, though in this case they will prefer to relieve themselves on an inanimate object if it would be rape. The time they are pregnant is around 52 days and they carry from 3 to 6 foals. In rare occasions it can be up to 8. Unlike some headcannons of Fluffies, pregnant Coluffies are always able to walk thanks to their longer legs. A Coluffy will actually be able to tell when it’s giving birth and try to do so in a suitable surface. A mare will say “Babies Coming” when their water breaks and “Babies Hewe” when they are currently giving birth. Because they have more time to develop, a Coluffy newborn will be slightly bigger than a Fluffy one. After finishing to give birth, a mare will lick its newborns clean (called “Chiwpy Babies” by Coluffies), giving them its smell if they are not theirs, try to dry them with its fur and then assess them. It won’t judge its children by color unless taught by humans and will only check for clear deformities like bent or missing legs, missing horns, or other clear deformities that would drastically shorten its life (called “Bwoken Babies” by Coluffies), sometimes being able to tell they are sick because of their smell. The mother and father will instinctively know that these newborns probably won’t survive and will kill them, so they won’t suffer, though they do feel bad about it unlike most Fluffies. They can also tell which ones are dead on birth if they don’t chirp after a few minutes. Owners can teach Coluffy parents to not kill any of their offspring on mercy, so instead they will try their best to keep them alive. They might eat the corpse if they are feral, as to not waste nutrients. A Best Baby might be chosen by the mother or father only if they resemble them a lot, but they usually won’t be spoiled too much compared to its siblings. After giving birth a mare will be ready to breed again in 12 days.

  1. Newborn Coluffies

A newborn Coluffy will act similarly to its Fluffy counterpart, as their brains aren’t more developed than that of a normal Fluffy foal yet, their bones being barely stronger. They cannot see as they still can’t open their eyes and will only communicate by way of chirping like chicks. Their horns are extremely small; barely showing through their fur; Pegasus Coluffies have small wings, and female Coluffy udders are practically non-existent. They have a keen sense of smell, so they are able to tell in what direction their siblings and parents are by comparing them to its own, as long as they are close enough and there aren’t a lot more of other Coluffy smells, being able to smell them at a maximum of a meter. As they are a bit more physically developed than their Fluffy counterparts they will be able to crawl just like a kitten in a couple of hours after birth. They can also hear well but can’t understand words yet apart from “milk”, so they will first go towards other chirping sounds if they can’t smell their mother or siblings, and then they will go towards any sounds that sound like speaking unless it sounds aggressive or angry. After finding the origin of any of these smells or sounds they will stay put. When hungry they will make longer chirping sounds and will try to suckle on any udder-like object that is warm. If they hear the word milk they will try to go towards its origin if hungry. At this stage they only have a light layer of hair covering their whole body, so they are pretty vulnerable to cold and being wet; though slightly less than Fluffy newborns; and will try to cuddle with their parents, siblings or other similarly chirping creatures. The mother will usually give warmth to her babies by hugging them and give them milk by sitting like a dog, that way all her udders are close to the ground and all her foals are able to drink easily. The father can also take care of well-fed newborns, mostly by giving warmth. After 3 days they will poop for the first time and be able to sit upright when not doing anything, being able to interact even if they won’t remember it later in life. They will also start to hug their siblings and caretakers whenever they can unless hungry. Their parents will carry them on their backs when moving somewhere else or leave them at their nesting place, with the foals grabbing their parent’s fur with their hooves; and mouth if they think they are going to fall; instinctively. At this phase they don’t need much interaction apart from feeding and giving warmth, as they can’t form permanent memories yet and will not remember who their mother is. They only need to be warm to be able to sleep. Coluffies with smarty syndrome will show signs sometime at this stage by trying to drink milk first. Unfortunately, their parents will most likely not notice it yet, as the mother can’t see what’s happening when feeding them. Owners that notice should simply stop them and let its siblings drink first. That works as a first step to reducing the smarty’s selfishness. This phase lasts around 9 days.

  1. Coluffy Foals

This means a Coluffy finally is able to open its eyes (called “Tawking Babies” by Coluffies), its brain has developed enough and now is capable of forming permanent memories. Unlike Fluffies, Coluffies have a bit more avian DNA and if their parents aren’t close enough for them to smell them, they will believe whatever they see first to be their parent/s, including inanimate objects if nothing clearly alive is near. They will learn the smell of what they believe to be their parent/s and try to stay near it. They won’t believe their siblings to be their parents as they smell almost the same as them, though the smell can be washed off. At this stage they will start to walk, say some words and very simple phrases; even if they spell like Fluffies; but will mostly communicate by chirping. Their teeth will also start to erupt, develop stronger bones, and begin to become more intelligent, gaining a few useful instincts almost immediately. They will call what they see as its parent “Mommy” if they know it’s female or can’t tell its gender, or “Daddy” if they know its male. They are also very emotional, easily showing their emotions and getting sad easily. They will believe hugs to be a cure all just like Fluffies. Their parents will most likely start teaching them different things slowly and will pet them or lick them to demonstrate their affection, using hugs only for comfort or warmth. They are still not particularly smarter than a Fluffy their age and are very vulnerable to danger because of the same reasons. The only counter is that they will never leave their parents side or will stay where they are with their siblings if they no longer see/smell them; unless instructed by their parent/s; so they won’t wander out and get hurt. They will become distressed if removed from what they see as their parent/s by force or left alone too long and will most likely cry. They will never forget the connection but will learn to trust their new caretaker if treated with care. Parents will still carry their offspring when going somewhere else somewhat far but will make them walk with them for short distances, so that they become stronger. At this phase Coluffies need the most attention, as they will quickly grow depressed if ignored and become catatonic after around 6 hours even if there is another foal with them, needing at least two other foals to be with them to be able to be left alone by their owners. Some can be left alone with warmth, something to hug and Fluffy TV. A single at least adolescent Coluffy will suffice though. They can’t be alone or else they won’t be able to sleep. Foals with smarty syndrome will most likely be noticed by their parents at this stage, as they will very probably start to act more visibly selfish with their siblings and might try to hurt creatures smaller than them if they did something the smarty did not want. They might also wander farther away than normal Coluffy foals as long as they can see their parents. At this point there are three possibilities. The parents will either kill or abandon it as they will see it as a danger to their other offspring, try to discipline it by any means necessary if they know how to, or if they are too emotional and/or docile, will accept his behavior. Owners that notice smarty behavior should use a Punishment Box as they still want to be with their parents and need a lot of attention, making it an effective way to fix them. This phase lasts around day 20.

  1. Coluffy Weanlings

After they grow enough they become weanlings (called “Cuwious Babies” by Coluffies) and are able to control their bowels. At this stage they will most likely be able to talk like their parents and will want to fully play, being able to make friends outside their family and/or caretakers. They will sometimes still chirp but will mostly only do so if in mental pain. Their horns, manes, and tail fluff will also start growing and they will also be able to start consuming solid food as their teeth are strong enough. The wings of Pegasus Coluffies start to grow more as well. They also get their most useful instinct yet, barely swimming. They will soon realize that hugs can’t cure any physical damage but can at least comfort. Their parents will tell them the limits of where they should go. They will most likely become curious and want to explore outside their usual living space, some will even go against the wishes of their parents if they are determined enough. Because of this, this stage is also the one they are more prone to hurt themselves as they are still not smart enough to notice most dangers but will at least try to flee from any they recognize. Parents will now let them walk with them unless they seem very tired. Smarties will usually fake being tired out of laziness. They will quickly grow out of needing constant attention at this stage in around 5 days, only needing something to do if alone and be interacted with by their owner for at least 4 hours, though it varies depending on personality, only becoming depressed instead of catatonic if neglected. They will only need to be with someone else to be able to sleep in the dark or if not possible, something to hug and a night light. Because of this, Coluffies with abusive parents or owner might not want to be with them anymore depending on their personality. The owner should start training Coluffies to use the litter box, punish them lightly when they go outside their permitted area and bathe them, so they lose their fear of water. They can also now be given up for adoption, as they won’t feel depressed by not being with their parents. This is also the stage they gain their remaining instincts and grow a lot. At this stage is also when being a smarty is the most clear and when they are suicidally overconfident. This phase lasts around day 45.

  1. Adolescence

When foals start to sexually mature they are considered Fillies and Colts. They begin to mature to adulthood and are able to eat everything an adult Coluffy could. Their manes and tail hair have grown almost to the usual size of an adult. Adolescent Coluffies are usually half the size of an adult. At this time they usually become the smartest they will ever be and can start breeding after one more week. Because of their higher intelligence, Coluffies will now realize that inanimate objects cannot be their parent/s (except for particularly stupid ones) and will wonder who they were, though they will still be attached to the object they thought it was. They will still believe anything alive and bigger than them at that point to be their parent/s but will think of themselves to be a Coluffy. At this stage they might get a Best Friend but will probably wait to reproduce until they are fully adults. They also usually need to only be interacted with by its owner for 3 hours if alone, though it varies with personality. To sleep they at least need a night light. Smarty Coluffies will stop being suicidally overconfident and will instead try to scheme to get what they want even if fairly obvious to observant humans. They will treat smaller Coluffies as less and might hurt them if they do not obey it. This phase lasts around the 10-month mark.

  1. Adult Coluffies

Adults are fully matured Coluffies and can be somewhat independent. They will breed if they want to and if their owners let them. Their horns will stop growing and permanently stay at that size, only becoming smaller very slowly thanks to wear. If raised correctly they are very likely to follow any order from their owners, including not reproducing. They might also follow any order from an abusive owner because of fear but will take any chance they get to flee or kill themselves after suffering enough. At this stage they only need to be interacted with around 2 hours if alone. They are considered adults until the 6-year mark.

  1. Old Coluffies

After 6-7 years, Coluffies will show clear signs of aging. They will start to get grey strands of hair and will start to become less active. The time it takes for them to form a permanent memory now is around 4 months. Around 12-14 years of age they might get Alzheimer’s disease, eventually leaving them in a foal like state and unable to form any more memories. At this point is best to euthanize them, as they are practically gone.

Feral Coluffies

Even though loved almost as much as dogs, some irresponsible owners left some Coluffies out in the wilderness. Coluffies without owners realize they need to be with other Coluffies to survive and will quickly form herds. Then they reproduce, with their herds able to reach up to 16 adolescent or older Coluffies at a time. Coluffies are specially adapted to live out in the cold wilderness and learned different ways to survive. Unlike Fulffies they don’t like to live inside cities as they don’t like to eat trash but will if desperate enough. Instead, feral Coluffies usually live out in the wilderness or the outskirts and big parks of cities. If they used to have an owner they will search for humans from time to time so they can get adopted. If not, they will not go in search of a human but will still try to be adopted by one if they see it.

A feral Coluffie herd consists of at least 3 Coluffies. The actually smartest one will usually be the leader (called “Weadew” by Coluffies) or at least advice (called “Smawt Cowuffy”) the Coluffy that has the most leadership. When there are around 7 adolescent Coluffies or older, the leader will select the stronger ones to defend the herd (called “Stwong Fwiends”). These ones will sacrifice themselves to protect the herd by serving as bait for predators (called “Monstews” by Coluffies) clearly stronger than any them, leading it away from the herd, even if sometimes its fruitless. The leader, Smart Coluffy, and his guards will have preference to breed but aren’t the only ones permitted. The herd will mostly protect mares and especially pregnant mares. Ferals will eventually only discriminate against very weak and useless Coluffies (called “Usewess Cowuffy”); not caring if they leave them behind; even if they had been taught by humans otherwise and will only eat their dead foals sometimes when hungry, though they will at first feel bad about it. They will also almost never eat one of their babies to feed another, even if all of them are starving, at least until they notice that one of them has died. They won’t consume dead Coluffies unless everyone is starving. They usually won’t reproduce if it’s snowing as they think it will be too cold for their offspring. They will still reproduce before and because of the time they are pregnant they might give birth while it’s snowing. Their offspring have a high probability of dying more at that time of malnutrition since mares might not be able to eat to produce enough milk. Because of this experienced ferals will kill their foals if they are born in the winter and kill the not old enough and weakest foals when winter comes, leaving only the seemingly strongest. Herds will give more food to milk producing mares only if there are around 5 or less adolescent or older Coluffies in the herd. If there are more they will try to search for more food but will let their foals starve instead of letting the older ones die.

Feral Coluffies with smarty syndrome (called “Sewfish Cowuffy” by others) will usually be ignored and abandoned if adolescent or killed if younger. The only times they make herds is if they find a group of docile enough Coluffies, with only one smarty in the herd. Feral smarties will usually fight each other or sometimes make their herds kill them when they encounter each other, integrating the remaining Coluffies and killing all foals. Their foals also have preference for food over the others. They will also kill smarty foals, even if they are its own. Because of their selfishness, smarty herds are eventually killed off, leaving the smarty alone.

Feral Coluffies will eventually try to bathe if they become too dirty and disgusted of their smell. They will open faucets if they learn how or will enter shallow and slow rivers, shallow pools, or puddles. If they enter a river, the first time they will be very scared of being taken by the current. Eventually they overcome that fear and bathe in the shallow part. Ferals will also teach their offspring to bathe in puddles if they are too dirty.

One of the first things feral Coluffies learn is that they can defeat predators their same size if they attack together and how to strike with their hind legs. Herds also learn that there should always be a litter of newborns every time another litter reaches adolescence because of the higher mortality for feral Coluffies, so they will breed when there are no foals even if there are no Best Friend Coluffies in the herd. Foals are usually raised by all the herd instead of just the parents when there are at least 7 adolescent or older Coluffies, so certain generations don’t really know who their biological parents are because of the many smells. A herd will try to save as many of their offspring as possible if they encounter danger or a predator but will sometimes sacrifice one to keep a predator away. They will also construct nests or use hollowed out trees in which they will live as long as there is food near. The nests they build are actually good even if sometimes unstable. Feral Coluffies will often try to name each other; usually with their color; so it’s easier to talk. They will also name their offspring. After some time they will realize that it isn’t a good idea and only name their offspring if they reach adolescence because they have a higher probability to die.

Ferals fear nighttime more than domestic ones, because if they have bright colors they are more visible to night predators. Because of this, a herd will try to hide close together within anything they can during the night to avoid being seen if they haven’t built nests. They will usually try sleeping inside bushes or will at least order their offspring to hide in them. Since its very dark and they can’t see better than a human, when they hear one of them screaming during the night they will flee the other way instead of helping, since they know they wouldn’t be able to do much anyway. When nests are built or a safe place to sleep is found, Coluffy’s confidence to sleep will increase. After gaining some experience, they will build nests in a way that there are two entrances, so they have an escape route if a predator tries to enter.

Feral herds will usually be friendly to each other and trade food, but sometimes conflict arises, and the leaders and guards get killed. In that case they will integrate the remaining Coluffies and adopt the foals unless they are Useless Coluffies.

A few interesting behaviors is that feral Coluffies will try to use objects as weapons if they can grab them, teach others everything they know, and might even learn from deer or other animals how to graze the snow to find grass and survive winter better. They also can learn to finish off badly wounded Coluffies as mercy.

They mostly eat grass and the flowers they can find. They can also eat fallen fruit from trees and sometimes dig for certain vegetables. The only danger to agriculture they posed was to lettuce patches but not too much, as feral Coluffies are quite fond of them. This can easily be solved with some fences with barbed wires, as they do not dare to cross, and their foals won’t leave their side. They will also understand if a farmer tells them that the food is for humans even though they might beg for a while and won’t bother anymore.

Interactions with Fluffies

Fluffies are able to differentiate themselves from Coluffies when they are at least adolescent. If they meet a Coluffy younger than that they will think it’s a Fluffy. With an earthy Coluffy they will be surprised and confused when they see their multiple horns but won’t be scared. With a pegasus on the other hand they will be afraid like with an Alicorn and possibly try to kill it. They will be slightly fearful of adult Pegasus Coluffies. Fluffies will also be weirded out by Coluffies if they notice their bad memory. They will always call a Coluffy a “Coow Fwuffy” until they learn how they are called.

Coluffies will first be curious about Fluffies and try to be friends, though they will soon realize how stupid they are. They will mostly feel bad for them except if they are being annoying towards them, at which point they might hurt the Fluffy to get it to stop, though they will try to not do much damage. They might also adopt Fluffy foals since they look similar to Coluffies, though they will realize they are not Coluffies after some time. After that they might choose to abandon it if it is too annoying since they clearly see it is very stupid compared to them. Abusers sometimes use Coluffies to abuse Fluffies as they are stronger than them and also because you can teach them to hate Fluffies, having fun hurting these stupid creatures.

Since Coluffies are smarter, they are likely to see Fluffies as pets, especially Micro-Fluffies. If they decide to keep a Fluffy as a pet (sometimes after they though it was a Coluffy foal) they will do their best to take care of it, being way less probable to abuse it than a human, but it sometimes happens. They will use the ways that they see their owner take care of them on the Fluffy and will ask for advice if it doesn’t work. They are also prone to not care if it dies because of its own stupidity.

Feral herds of Fluffies and Coluffies don’t get along because of the leaders of Fluffy herds. Usually they wouldn’t care much about them and could even trade food, but because their leaders order them to give them food and Coluffies won’t, they end up fighting. Coluffies that already met Fluffies will first try to hurt them until they get swallowed by fear and run away. If they are too stubborn Coluffies will be smart enough to first kill their leader and see if the rest of the herd will continue fighting. Half of the times, their thoughie enforcers will continue the fight and be killed, at which point the rest of the herd will flee or surrender, and the other half of the time they will quickly flee. Another reason feral Coluffies might kill Fluffies is when Fluffies see Coluffy foals, think they are of their own species, get scared because of their horns and try to kill them. If they get caught trying, the rest of the herd will most likely hurt the Fluffy until it leaves. If it manages to visibly hurt a foal, including rape by Fluffy stallions that don’t care that they look different, the other Coluffies will get enraged and kill it at the best of their ability. If the Fluffy is part of a herd the rest will try to get and revenge and fail. Smarty Coluffy herds always try to kill all Fluffies they encounter if they do not give in to their demands. The only times Coluffies might lose to Fluffies is if there is a big difference in their numbers, which is rare considering how better are Coluffies at surviving, or if they are very docile.

Exterminators will use these facts to help eradicating feral Fluffies. They will reward Coluffies when they kill Fluffies and will also inform them; sometimes exaggerating; of how evil and despicable Fluffies are towards each other, Coluffies and others. This will make feral Coluffies hate Fluffies and try to leave no survivors.

There are rare occasions when either a Fluffy finds a Coluffy foal without wings or doesn’t care, and then adopts it. Since Coluffies imprint on the first thing they see when they open their eyes they will believe it to be its mother. When these Coluffies grow up they will believe themselves Fluffies thanks to their similarities and their surrogate mothers will think they are special. If the mother discriminates against it but isn’t cruel enough to abandon it, the Coluffy might grow with some sort of trauma.

Coluffy foals can get their needed attention from an at least adolescent Fluffy since foals are more likely to be scared of them but aren’t capable of badly hurting them. Usually a Coluffy will only be able to get hurt by a Fluffy foal if it is bigger, since they will try to run away after they get hurt it if it’s smart enough. A bigger Fluffy foal will at most only be able to leave some bruises.

In very rare occasions a Fluffy will ignore its differences with a Coluffy and vice versa and will try to reproduce. Coluffy mares are able to be impregnated by Fluffy stallions but not the other way around. Their children will mostly be miscarriages but the few that make it will look like Fluffies even if they have half the inner upgrades Coluffies have, including intelligence, but aren’t able to reproduce themselves.

If you reached this part, thanks for reading. I bet there are a bunch of interesting ways to particularly abuse Coluffies or make interesting stories with them, Fluffies and their other variants. Also, I might add more information on the future and change some details, so I will upload it again if so.

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