The Abuser’s Web Guide - Episode 1: Beyond Casual Abuse
By: Turboencabulator
The scene opens on a man shot from the neck down, wearing a dove-grey polo and sitting behind a desk topped with white vinyl.
“Hello friends, I’m Interocitor, welcome to a long-promised series. Some of you may know my
work from my website, The Abuser’s Web Guide, and for several months a small, but growing group on the forums have suggested starting a video series for the site. After some time picking up
equipment and figuring out how the hell editing software works, here we are.”
He thinks for a moment, then continues. “Well I also had to do a lot of cleaning of the ‘fun
room’. Bloodstains might lend a charming aesthetic for normal usage, but on camera it comes
across as unprofessional.”
“So, let’s talk about what we’re going to cover in this and the next few videos. I assume you
already know the basics of fluffies, so we’re going to begin with some less common knowledge,
and easy ways to get started with fluffy-abuse as a serious hobby, rather than a momentary
distraction. In the next episodes we’ll cover constructing a saferoom and workrooms, some
methods for gaslighting and psychologically manipulating fluffies, ways to acquire fluffies
without being seen, and as a special bonus we’ll have our first foray into mummah-abuse.”
He reaches down and plops a fat, dopey-looking mare on the table. She’s a burnt pink color with
a vomit-green mane.
“This is Rose. Say hello to the camera Rose, we’re making a movie!”
The mare waves at the camera and merrily shouts, “Hewwo camewa!”
Interocitor puts down a bowl of kibble dressed with pasta sauce, and Rose immediately forgets
the camera, eating with little om-nom-nom sounds.
“Now, most people know of the spectacularly low intelligence of fluffies. However, their vision
is also quite bad, except in certain conditions. Normal lighting for humans saturates their
color vision, but if you dim the lighting to the point their black and white vision starts to
take over, they can see quite well. Of course, their vision goes to shit if it gets too dark,
and a room that a human can see in greyscale, a fluffy may view as completely dark.”
He snapped his fingers behind Rose’s head, and she jumped, looking around.
“Fluffy hearing is quite sensitive in specific bands, mostly tuned to higher pitched human
speech, except they seem to have some errors in how their brain processes sound. If it isn’t
quite distinctly on one side or the other, fluffies can’t really tell which direction a sound
is coming from.”
After finishing with a burp, Rose sat back and put her forelimbs up in the ‘uppies’
pose. Interocitor began to tickle her instead, causing her to roll on her back and kick and bat
at his forearms, giggling and laughing.
“They have very sensitive skin, even through the fluff, and their sense of taste is on par with
humans. However, their sense of smell prioritizes ‘good’ smells over bad, with some exceptions
so Rose couldn’t smell the poop under the nice smell of garlic and tomato paste.”
Rose is panting, oblivious to what Interocitor just said. She giggled as the human picked her
up and carried her off camera. “Ok you, time for a nap.”
After a moment, the shot switched to Rose in a playpen, turning in circles in a blanket until
she eventually fell flat on her side with a dull thump, wiggled around, farted, and fell
asleep.
“One of the most important things you can know as a fluffy owner is how to spot a
pregnancy. Rose here was specifically allowed to have children, however if you forbid your own
mare without taking the appropriate steps, they will probably try to find a way to get pregnant
anyways. You can thank HasBio for that one.”
The camera slides forward, and Interocitor gently lifts one of Rose’s hind legs. “Normally the
teats on a mare will be flesh-tone like the surrounding skin. Here, you can see them taking on
a rosey hue as blood flow increases in preparation for lactation.” He shifts the camera back,
pointing at a curve on the dam’s vulva. “Also, this ridge will bow outwards as the pregnancy
proceeds, though by the time you notice she may already be showing the more obvious signs.”
“As a tip, if your fluffy has morning sickness, for every eight ounces of water in their dish
or bottle, mix in a shot of apple cider vinegar and some local honey.”
“I’ve dosed her food so we can examine her more closely without waking her.” He said, shifting
the camera up to the fluffy’s head. He lifted her lips, showing her teeth and tongue, and
making her snore a little. “Since fluffies are obligate herbivores, their jaw strength is quite
low, and their teeth are weak, but continue to grow. This is excepting eating each other,
because they’re so physically weak, or the rare ‘cannibal fluff’ mutation. They however do not
have the same issue that rodents do, as the teeth grow over a nerve mound, which seems to feed
back and tell their body when to stop producing dentin and enamel. This means unless you remove the whole tooth, it will grow back.”
He gently rolled her on her back and held one hoof so it was visible in the camera’s
frame. “Unlike horses, fluffies do not have a ‘frog’ to their hooves, rather it’s a squishy pad
like firm foam rubber, with a leathery outer hide. Part of a fluffy’s design is their inherent
want to touch and feel things, so their hooves are excellent targets. Plus as long as you don’t
take out chunks, they heal quite quickly.”
The scene shifts to a wooden workbench in front of a row of cages. Each cage has a single
fluffy stuffed in, with a water bottle and metal bowl attached to the door. All of them stare
out, eyes watery, and keeping silent.
Interocitor walks on screen with a duffel bag. “Now as you can see I have a full setup, however
for those of you just getting into fluffy abuse as a full hobby, you probably don’t have a lot
sunk into this. I would recommend keeping it that way until you can figure out exactly how
interested in fluffies you are. Some of us go for full abuse. Others, like myself, tend to
split it down the middle. This will influence how much space you set aside for fluffies, and
what you put in it. But for the early days, I recommend making a fluffing-bag.” He pats the
duffel bag, and sets it on the workbench.
“Think of this as a portable abuse toolkit. So you can take a fluffy out to the woods, or into
your basement, anywhere you would prefer, and still have enough on hand for a good time. When I was getting started I had the good fortune to be near an abandoned factory.”
He starts taking items out of the bag, laying them out on the workbench. “So, first is nitrile
gloves. Ferals are absolutely filthy. Then is a cork, for obvious reasons, I like putting an
eye-hook in mine for utility’s sake. We have a mesh bag for fluffy transportation, some rubber
bands, some paracord, a knife, which of course has many uses, and zip ties.”
“Oh, and make sure you dress appropriately. Nothing fancy, brightly colored, or difficult to
wash.”
He sets a tupperware container down on the counter, opening the top. Inside is a bunch of
reddish-brown lumpy squares. “One thing you should always have on hand is bait. Doubles as
treats for rewarding fluffies. This is my wife’s fluffy spaghetti chews recipe, which you can
find on the website. There’s a drugged variant she came up with that knocks out most fluffies
in about a minute.”
After re-sealing the container, he moves on, putting down more tools. “A trowel, for digging
pit traps. Fun fact, a large coffee can buried in the ground with a picture of spaghetti in the
bottom has been known to trap a fluffy. Funniest shit you’ll see is a fluffy stuck face-down in
one. But, next is pliers, toothpicks, sewing needles, a styptic pencil, thumbtacks, fish-hooks,
fishing line, small bottle of alcohol, small bottle of iodine, a cheap lighter, and some small
bags. As a tip, head over to your local gaming shop and pick up some dice bags. Small ones will
work over foal’s heads, large ones for adults. If you don’t have a game shop, try crown royal
bags.”
“Finally,” he says, laying out a few more items, “We have the tools for taking fluffies home
with you. If you’re taking an adult home, just use the mesh bag, cork, and rubber bands to keep
it quiet. Foals, just use a smaller bag. However, for chirpies, you’ll want something like
this.” He’s holding up a cardboard tube for a whiskey bottle.
Opening it, there’s a pad of cotton wadding in one end, and a milk-bottle in the other. “Roll
the chirpy up in the cotton, not too tight, and tuck it in one end. I’ve put plenty of
air-holes in there, and glued a mesh bottom in the other end with a sponge in it. There’s also
a slot cut on the side for a hunter’s hand-warmer if you’re doing this in winter, plus another
one for warming the milk. Make sure the chirpie’s head is free to move around, then close it
up. The darkness and warmth will calm it down, and it’ll be able to eat without much
trouble. Just don’t wrap it too tight it can’t get around to the nipple.”
“This brings us to the mailbag, so please be sure to send questions in, either here or in the
‘mailbag’ thread on the forums!”
He takes out a large plastic tub with folded printer paper in it, and pulls one out, opening
it. “Dear Interocitor, my mare bit me today when I was giving her a bath. What should I do?”
With a chuckle, he says, “Well, personally I would hold her down and remove each tooth one at a
time with a pair of pliers while explaining that good fluffies don’t try to hurt humans.”
After fishing through a drawer, he pulls out a pen and the view shifts to overhead. “Generally
though, fluffies only really bite as a form of defense. If they’re attacking overtly, they tend
to go for poop or hooves. Personally I think it’s a result of the rodent DNA that went into
them, but given how much of a clusterfuck their biology is, it could be entirely because of
something random.” Interocitor draws a short flowchart. “The problem is when exactly she bit
you. If it was upon being inserted into the water, that’s because she probably thought it was a
threat, and reacted to it.” He makes an arrow to the first box, labeled ‘threat’. “If it was
well after that, and after she had enough time to voice her complaint and be reassured, then it
was out of anger.”
“Personally any fluffy that thinks it can be spiteful and attack a human is immediately
condemned. However, if you decide to simply punish the fluffy for the biting, the best thing to
do to prevent this from happening in future is to change bathing from a threat to a need in
their mind. If you have a feral or a particularly bright domestic, then explaining why a bath
is necessary can sometimes be enough.” He strikes out the threat label and replaces it with
need.
“Alternatively, you can work to eliminate the connection between threat and reaction through
psychological manipulation.”
He slide a photograph of a poofy silvery-grey mare onto the table. “This is a picture of Clara,
one of the fluffies I used to have. She had a similar reaction to being bathed, but otherwise
was a very loving, close fluffy. I used this to make her believe that being clean was the only
way she could be loved. This also helped her with litterbox training. You can accomplish this
in various ways, such as refusing physical contact until the fluffy is clean, verbal cues, or
if you prefer the subtle route, dim lights and sad music when they’re dirty, and better lights
and music when they’re clean. Fluffies are weak enough mentally you can connect things like
that together, to the point if they’re dirty, they become sad.”
He fishes around in the bin again, pulling out another slip. “Dear Interocitor, my mare
recently had a litter of babies and is refusing to use her litterbox, citing that she needs to
be with her babies at all times, even though she only feeds her favorites. Normally we use a
sorry-box for training, but we don’t want to starve the chirpies.”
“Well, when it comes to foal favoritism -and- litterbox problems, I would recommend making a
milk-bag station. These can be purchased commercially, but the idea is to isolate the mare
completely except for access to her teats. Some people simply cut a hole and let 'em hang out,
other solutions include integrated milk pumps and feeding tubes. Honestly if I were in your
shoes I would set her up in a long term milkbag station, then get her turned into a litterpal
when her babies were grown up and better behaved than she was. Make sure you let her see how
her children grow up without ‘such a bad mummah’.”
“Last one of the episode, folks!” He says, digging through the bin again. “Dear Interocitor,
I’ve started breeding fluffies for a small circle of abuser-friends. One of my mares produces
excellent foals, and was allowed to keep a colt. She immediately spoiled it into a smarty. What
would be the best course of action to ensure this never happens again?”
With a short laugh, Interocitor tosses the paper aside. “Oh I think I know who this is. I told
you something would happen. But having a dedicated breeder is not a bad idea if you have a
group of like-minded individuals. In your case, I would start thus.”
He reaches off-camera and comes back with a foal, squirming in his grip. “Pwease mistew, no
huwties, am guud babbeh.”
“This is a little trick I do called the enfie special.” He picks up a scalpel and quickly gives
the foal a penectomy.
“SCREEE-MPHN”
The foal is trying to make noise, but with a thumb in his mouth it’s rather difficult. “You
have a choice whether or not you want to remove the testes, but for maximum suffering leave
them on. The foal will develop with normal testosterone, but won’t be able to get enough
stimulation to ejaculate except from anal penetration. Since the testes are still there, it’ll
get just as needy sexually, basically turning it into a willing fucktoy for other stallions.”
He turns the foal on its side. “Make sure you’ve emptied the little one before you do this, by
the way. Otherwise you’re going to get very messy very fast.”
He positions his grip so the foal’s head is poking out the back of his fist, index finger
pulling the two hind legs forward slightly.
“Huu huu huu pwease mistew, no mowe huwties, pwease gib back no-no stick, huuuuu”
Instead, Interocitor grabs a thick sewing pin. “Next we want to make sure there’s no ability to
buck would-be users, by weakening the knees.” He says, then drives the pin through each knee
and out the front, wiggling it slightly. The foal’s screaming is accompanied by a squirt of
urine.
He dumps the foal on the countertop, wiping his hand off. “That should do it, the foal can walk
slowly, poop, and even play a little, but it won’t be able to run or buck.”
After putting the foal off-screen, he absentmindedly begins cleaning the workspace. "Allow
three or four days for the foal to heal up. It might have some issues walking the first few
days but it’ll get back to waddling around in no time. After a week of trying to hump random
things, it’ll be time to introduce it to any needy stallions you might have. Mare scent is
optional but hilarious. However, this is only half of the equation.
“Make the mother watch. Make sure she understands that is what happens to smarties, bad babies, and brats. Let her other children fuck it. Let any stallion she’s had a litter with fuck
it. And most of all, if you are using a mare as a breeder, never let her keep any children past
being weaned. If she’s turning brat, never even let her see her children, get a few incubators
or milk-mares and raise them without her. If she corrects her behavior, good. If she doesn’t,
you have a new toy. If she fakes it and tries raising bad babies, you’ve hit an abuse jackpot.”
“Well that’s all for me this round, see you next time!”